If you make one please show it here and give it a like. Or if you think a change would improve something please comment.
video 1: https://youtu.be/jPulnKtUiBs video 2: https://youtu.be/7LTETrX2Ruw
Printing is done in pla. Abs would be stronger but is more difficult. Pla works for me just fine. The bucket is modelled with strong beams to have good bonding with the build plate. I just have a cheap anet a6 printer and with other smaller attach points it came off time after time. Just print without any support or brim . Use a rotary tool to cut off the unwanted parts and sand the bucket smooth.
After rebuilding the NQD Tear into it was much better and faster but I did not like the fact it could only drive forward. Time for some 3d designing. I modelled the back of the boat and the external jet pump parts to be able to design around them. I could choose between a bucket attached to the transom or attached to the swiveling nozzle. The last one seemed more easy to me so went for that. It gets attached with the same screws that are in the transom allready, just take them out and put the bucket base plate in place and screw them back again. The hinge points holding the bucket are pretty thin but never failed on me. Make sure all holes are drilled to size to accomodate the screws and bolts and make sure the bucket arms will fit in between without too much force. If not, just file all burs and high spots. The bucket will fit perfectly. The only thing that needs to be done is a bit of pla needs to get removed on the top edge in one corner. This is needed to stay free from the brass steering clamp when going forward and steering hard right. Make sure the steering actuator wire will not protrude through the brass clamp. cut off any excess length (after adjusting the steering and you are sure the boat will go straight). the bucket is mounted with stainless m3 bolts and nuts with nylon inserts to hold them on without clamping the hinge. the actuator wire attachment point can be use with just a wire but I added a similar clamp as used for the steering. This makes adjusting more easy and also mounting is more easy. The bucket will not interfear with the waterflow at forward movement in any way and also will not damage when sliding over rocks. And if there will be a broken part just hit print and you will be fine. The only little downside of this design is that in reverse the steering is also in reverse. But the steering is very acurate and it can turn on the spot in backward position. The used servo is a towerpro mg 90s from aliexpress. This will fit in the servo mount I designed for it. It is smart to waterproof the servo a bit since water can come in a bit now and then under the lid (silicone putty on the servo body seams and grease on the gears and bearing inside the servo where the driveshaft will protrude the body). A rubber bellow Is put in a hole in the transom around the actuator wire to avoid water coming in just like the original steering wire has.Also to be found on aliexpress. just look for "rubber bellow rc".